Fulco di Verdura The glittering Duke
On the 7th of June, Christie's New York hosted a memorable event, the Magnificent Jewels live auction. This auction featured a remarkable selection of jewelry, including pieces from the esteemed collection of Adolphus Andrews Jr. and his wife, Emily Taylor Andrews. Known for their embodiment of old-world elegance and opulence, Dolph and Emmy, as they were affectionately called by their friends, shared a deep passion for art, interior design, and, of course, jewellery. Lots from their collection reflect the joie de vivre of the Andrews and a singular taste. Dolph would delight in ordering the latest creations from various houses and had a particular affinity and love for the creations of Fulco di Verdura.
Born in 1898 and christened Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, the Duke of Verdura, he was the only son of an eccentric Sicilian family. Their home in Palermo with its lush tropical gardens, trips to the beach, and numerous family pets was an ideal setting for a creative child like Fulco. With the death of his father in 1919 and subsequent inheritance, he spent the following years exploring Europe.
In 1926, Verdura went to Paris and began to work for Coco Chanel as a textile designer. She recognized his talent and quickly enlisted him to redesign her outmoded jewellery. The now iconic Maltese cross cuff bracelets they created together are the perfect exemplification of his bold designs with their large, unsubtle gemstones, and a preference for gold. Verdura continued on as Chanel’s head jewellery designer for six years.
Coco Chanel with Fulco di Verdura, Paris, 1937
Photography by Lipnitzki
Maltese Cross cuff bracelet
He left Europe for America in 1934 and toured the states making business connections. He began designing jewellery for Paul Flato, "Jeweler to the Stars," and amassed a loyal following in Hollywood. In 1941 he collaborated with Salvador Dali on a collection of jewellery designs, while also creating a set of "Night and Day" cufflinks for Cole Porter, inspired by the singer's popular hit of that name. Katharine Hepburn as a feisty Philadelphia socialite wore Verdura jewellery in the 1940 film version of "The Philadelphia Story"; Joan Crawford and Marlene Dietrich were both Verdura devotees, while a curb-link bracelet watch that he made for Greta Garbo became one of her lifelong treasures, often featured in portraits of the actress.
In 1940, Joan Fontaine purchased Fulco's pink topaz and diamond "Wing" brooch, which she later wore in the 1941 Hitchcock film Suspicion. A reimagining of this stunning brooch with emeralds is being offered at Christie’s auction.
Verdura Emerald and Diamond ‘Wing’ Clip-Brooch
Pear-shaped emeralds, round diamonds, platinum and 18k yellow gold, signed Verdura, black Verdura case
5.7 x 5.0 cm
28.5 grams
Price realised: USD 52,920
After five years of working for Flato, Verdura returned to New York and with the financial support of Vincent Astor and encouragement from his close friend, Cole Porter, opened his own business on Fifth Avenue. Despite the turbulent war overseas, the boutique was a huge success. Jewels composed of charming animals, whimsical winged hearts, and flora and fauna inspiration became sought after by jewellery collectors. In the 1940s Fulco purchases a collection of sea shells from the American Museum of Natural History in New York and sets them in gold with precious gems, charming New York society.
Tallulah Bankhead wearing the Verdura Lion’s Paw shell brooch
Verdura Sea Shell, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Hokusai Wave’ Brooch
Sea shell, round and oval-shaped sapphires, round diamonds, platinum, signed Verdura
5.3 x 4.7 cm
38.2 grams
Price realised: USD 47,880
Verdura Sea Shell and Ruby Brooch
Sea shell, free-formed-shaped rubies, 18k yellow gold, signed Verdura
approximately 5.3 x 5 cm
28.8 grams
Price realised: USD 27,720
These designs and striking use of colour captured an unconventional glamour that was highly sought after by patrons including Diana Vreeland and Betsey Cushing Whitney.
In 1985, Ward Landrigan, head of Sotheby's US jewellery department, purchased the company, including its archive of nearly 10,000 original sketches, and set about to bring Verdura's timeless designs to a new generation of collectors. His son Nico joined the company in 2004 and currently serves as President alongside Ward, Verdura's CEO. In 2014, the company celebrated its 75th anniversary with a 3-month retrospective exhibition that attracted over 8,000 attendees.
Ward Landrigan (left) with his son Nico
Maltese Cross cuff bracelet in the new era under Ward Landrigan
Today Verdura's fine jewelry is available at the company's flagship gallery at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York, overlooking Central Park, as well as retail partners Bergdorf Goodman, select Neiman Marcus locations, Betteridge, Obsidian in London and Mindham in Toronto.
Theodore & C is in awe of the elegant, charming and daring designer, Verdura who was the darling of both Hollywood and the international society crowd.
Verdura Colored Diamond, Diamond and Cultures Pearl Fish Brooch
Round yellow diamonds and diamonds, cultured pearl, 18k yellow gold, signed Verdura
5.0 x 3.8 cm
29.8 grams
Price realised: USD 17,640
Verdura Ruby, Diamond and Emerald Brooch
Round and cushion-shaped rubies, round diamonds, round emerald, yellow gold and platinum, signed Verdura
8.5 cm (3 1/4 in)
30.7 grams
Price realised: USD 56,700
Verdura Ruby, Diamond and Emerald ‘Pomegranate’ Brooch
Round cabochon rubies, round and marquise-cut diamonds, round emeralds, platinum and 18k yellow gold, signed Verdura
5.5 x 4.0 cm
44.8 grams
Price realised: USD 52,920
Verdura Set of Pearl, Diamond and Enamel Jewellery
Comprising a necklace and pair of earrings, baroque-shaped pearls, round diamonds, blue enamel, yellow gold and platinum, each unsigned
Verdura, 2023: Certificate of Authenticity
necklace 41.5 cm, earrings 4.0 cm
185.7 grams
Price realised: USD 63,000
Verdura Sapphire, Diamond and Green Tourmaline Brooch
Oval cabochon sapphires, round diamonds, baguette and tapered baguette-cut green tourmalines, platinum, unsigned
Verdura, 2023: Certificate of Authenticity
7.0 x 5.0 cm
67.7 grams
Price realised: USD 50,400
Pear-shaped cabochon amethysts, carved emeralds, round diamonds and yellow diamonds, yellow gold, unsigned, numbered, one carved emerald chipped, black Verdura case
Verdura, 2023: Certificate of Authenticity
9.0 x 5.6 cm (3 1/2 x 2 1/4 in)
53.3 grams
Estimate: USD 30,240